Everywhere you look it’s like a postcard. Not always beautiful in the accepted sense, but Peru is so extraordinary that the everyday becomes mind-blowing. A collection of little cottages set against the great sweep of the Altiplano, sunset over Lake Titicaca, your first glimpse of Inca ruins through the thick, humid jungle. As a visitor from Europe this must be one of the most exotic, unexpected destinations left on a well-travelled planet.
South America has never really made it onto the hit list of top holidays for Europeans but that’s fine. You get the feel of a genuine adventure when you’re a continent away from the fish n’ chips, Irish bars and full English breakfasts invading so many package holiday favourites.
Let’s dive into part two of our guide to the coolest places to see in Peru. In this one we focus on the walking, since it’s by far the best way – and often the only way – to experience the real Peru for yourself, either DIY or guided travel.
Hit Ayacucho to hike to the magnificent Millpu Lagoons
It is well worth the time, effort and trek to see the astonishing Millpu Lagoons come into view after a tough hike off the beaten track. It’s like the Garden of Eden here, with twenty or so natural pools of stunning turquoise water set like jewels against the greenery. It looks heavenly but it’s fed by glaciers so the freezing water is not for swimming in. Start your walk at the town of Circamarca and hike for forty minutes or so to experience a view so lovely it’ll make your eyes water.
Go wild in Paracas
The Galapagos Islands are famous thanks to Charles Darwin and the finches he studied there. Paracas, in the south, is sometimes called the ‘poor man’s Galapagos’ but it’s equally rich in impressive wildlife, with more than 400 different species of our fellow beings to spot and admire. This place is full of amazing birds, sea lions and penguins and the Paracas National Reserve offers exciting organised boat tours.
Desert sands and pre-Colombian ruins
Chan Chan is South America’s biggest pre-Columbian city. The archaeological sites here date back to Chimú and Incan times and because it isn’t on the main tourist trail you’ll find it full of atmosphere, quiet, even a bit spooky. Set at one end of the Moche Valley in the Trujillo area, barren desert sands and adobe-mud structures are the name of the game. If you’re not keen on getting sand everywhere – and we mean everywhere – make it a short visit. It’s often really windy.
Check out the massive Tschudi Palace, the impressive squares and the burial areas. The buildings are curved and rounded, towering above you. There’s a museum, the Museo de Sitio Chan Chan, explaining the city’s story through stone tools, pottery and multi-media presentations. For a spot of city life afterwards visit Trujillo for great local food, eye-wateringly lovely desert views, plus the famous Temple of the Sun and Moon. For a quieter experience stay in coastal Huanchaco, a slightly strange-feeling place where ancient people used to make human and animal sacrifices.
World class eye candy at El Parque de la Reserva
Find your way to downtown Lima and wander around the world’s biggest water fountain complex. It’s called El Circuito Mágico del Agua, home to thirteen fountains in total including the famous Tunnel Fountain of Surprises and Children’s Fountain. The Fantasia Fountain’s jets are set to music after dusk, with laser light shows to enjoy. It isn’t the only event held in this lovely park, there’s always something going on.
The Sacred Valley whisks you into the past
The Incan Sacred Valley delivers a wealth of Incan history along with ancient salt mines, epic Andean views and spiritually important sites where the Incas did their thing. Organised tours take you from Cusco to Pisac, Calca, Urubamba, Ollantaytambo and through to Machu Picchu.
The Spanish colonial village of Pisa gives you well-preserved Inca citadels, baths, houses, terraces, and burial areas, all dizzyingly high in the mountains while offering essentials like markets, shops, hotels and eateries. Calca is a traditional village known for its markets selling hand-woven textiles and food and Urubamba, on the river of the same name, is where you can go wild with adrenaline fuelled hang-gliding and river rafting. If you prefer life quieter visit the Maras Salt Mines and Moray terraces. Finally there’s Ollantaytambo, a charming town from where you catch the train up to Machu Picchu.
A challenging hike to an alternative Machu Picchu
The Choquequirao Trek is just as impressive and awe-inspiring as the Machu Picchu trek, designed for genuine adventure. It’s only for the tough, a difficult two day hike to a stunning Inca site. You might be the only ones there, this place is so far off the tourist trail.
Learn to sandboard in Huacachina
This vibrant little town is a desert oasis, your perfect location to learn the fine art of sandboarding, basically like snowboarding but on the sand. Sand buggy tours in the dunes are also great fun. The lagoon surrounded by palm trees in Huacachina is really lovely, especially if you rent a rowing boat for a leisurely pootle on the cool water.
Trek to your heart’s content in Huascaran National Park
Huaraz is your starting point for adventures in the Huascaran National Park, in the Callejón de Huaylas valley to Peru’s north. This high-altitude city delivers incredible views of the mountains with loads of guided day treks and longer hikes to book. The city itself is an exciting, bustling place with beautiful old squares, fountains and churches along with markets, hot springs and museums. The Monumento Nacional Wilcahuain Ruin is worth the climb, a huge hilltop mausoleum with a tour to enjoy.
Take the Llahuar Route to Colca Canyon
Get the bus to the magnificent Colca Canyon for spectacular vistas of volcanoes, alpaca, llamas and vicuñas. Or walk it on the three-day Llahuar route, a genuine off the beaten track adventure for stoic types. If that floated your boat, accept the challenge of the mighty Ausangate Trek next, just three hours from Cusco but it might as well be on a different planet. This is where to see the finest landscapes in South America.
Meet the Chachapoyas
The Machu Picchu of the North awaits you at Kuelap, the Andean home of the ancient Chachapoya civilization who lived here between the years 500-1432 before being conquered by the Aztecs. The fortified city of Kuelap is quite something, an impressive sight and just as fascinating as its more famous sister.
Fall in love with Peru’s best beach
Mancora is a deliciously lovely beach, sandy and huge and only used by locals. Very few foreign visitors find their way here, a jewel on the Pacific coast with year round sun, surf and seafood. Very cool.
Stuff the Grand Canyon – Go for the Colca Canyon!
Colca Canyon is the world’s second deepest at 3,270 metres down, twice as deep as the Grand Canyon in places and the perfect place to spot condors wheeling great spirals up into the blue, blue sky in the early morning.
Book a day trip or catch the bus to Cabanaconde to enjoy hiking tours to local villages, old ruins, and hot springs, with traditional food and authentic accommodation included. Not for the faint hearted, the walk to the bottom of the canyon is just as tough as the walk back up, with the Colca River snaking along the bottom as you climb, and climb, and climb…
We hope we’ve whet your appetite for something more than just a bit different. Peru is very different indeed, a magical experience you’ll hold close to your heart for the rest of your life.
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